What are the 8 Major Points of High Quality Dress Shirt Stitching?

How can wearers distinguish high quality dress shirt from the common options and styles available in the market today? There several important points that mark out the attention to detail and fine finishing that are common features on Thailand tailors dress shirts.

High Quality Dress Shirt Points of Excellence

Split Yokes; high quality dress shirt construction split yoke is the folded section of fabric across the back part of shoulders below the collars. Split yokes are stitched from two pieces of fabric. The functional advantage of split yokes is that when fabric is cut at particular angle it offers dress shirt fabric stretch laterally. Meaning it adds varied range of movement in almost all directions. Split yokes require added stitching and tailor expertise which reflect high quality dress shirt.

Pattern Match; high quality dress shirt has perfect fabric pattern match at the center back of the split yoke, front of the shirt and at pockets. If dress shirt fabric pattern match isn’t defined, stripes or checks don’t make straight designs in-front of the shirt. Similarly, horizontal lines must appear clearly from left to right part of the dress shirt. Also, vertical stripes must have spaces without stripes missing on both sides of dress shirt plackets. Stripes on one side of the collar must be similar in elevation to stripes on the other side of the collar. High quality dress shirts maintain patterns at the end of the yoke matches perfectly with the pattern at the top of the sleeves. It’s ok if patterns don’t match where sleeves meet cuffs, side seams and other parts of dress shirts.

Premium Cotton Fabric; cotton dress shirt fabrics have varied thread count, ply, origin, mill, weaves, yarn treatment, materials, etc. The quality of fabric is determines quality of the shirt. Fabrics with thread count of 80’s two-ply or greater are a great quality. There is skepticism about the 50’s single-ply fabrics, and more so of 40’s single-ply fabrics. It’s important though how fabrics look, feel and perform.

Detachable Collar Stay; collar stays help keep collar corners straight and sharp. High quality dress shirts often have detachable collar stays. Some dress shirts come with permanent collar stays, or without.

Mother of Pearl Buttons; quality of dress shirt buttons reveals a lot on the quality of the dress shirt. High grade mother of pearl buttons are preferred for vivid colors, reflecting sheen and shine. They are resistant to degradation due to cleaning, heat and are durable. Thick mother of pearl buttons are costly and show high quality of the dress shirt. Though there are also durable plastic or resin and horn or tagua nut attractive buttons too.

Decent Button Holes; if there are loose threads around button holes or fray it indicates poor tailor workmanship and low quality of dress shirt. Premium quality dress shirts have more stitch around button holes with clearly defined openings and no fray.

Single Needle Side Seam Stitch; single needle side seam stitch along dress shirt sides and sleeve bottom produce decent, sharp and elegant tight seam. Usually single line of thread is visible outside of shirts and tight seam ensure there is no crumple or crease when dress shirt is washed and dried. Sewing side seams this way is difficult for dress shirt makers.

Tight Sewn Buttons; buttons must feel and be tightly stitched to dress shirts without laxity. Preferably criss-cross shape stitching that ensures strong button attachment. Dress shirt buttons sewn in two parallel stitches unlike criss-cross stitching show poor quality of the dress shirt. Stitching buttons in a parallel manner is cheap and fast for dress shirt tailors and doesn’t provide secure attachment of buttons. Similarly, shanked buttons with other threads wrapped around threads holding the button to the shirt behind the button make buttons appear unique and perfectly stylish.

Small Button on Sleeve Placket; at shirt sleeve plackets high quality dress shirts have extra small button in the center of the placket which stops this particular part of the sleeve from staying open. Low quality shirts normally overlook this important part which results in either opening below cuffs or short sleeve plackets that are too short for sleeves to be rolled up on forearms.

Side Seam Gussets; high quality and premium dress shirts usually have reinforced stitching known as gussets. The extra piece of fabric prevents dress shirts from tearing apart at the seam due to rough dress habits or while washing. Gussets also add a modern and practical design to dress shirts.

These are some of the vital and important points of high quality dress shirts that can guide dress shirt buyers to the best and high quality tone and details.

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Shop No. 19, Sukhumvit Road, Soi 8 (Near Nana BTS), Khwaeng Khlong Toei, Klongtoey, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10110, Thailand.

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